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to queue for as long as four days at the border between Ogrodniki, Poland and Lazdijai. Lithuanian border guards are pretty nonchalant nowadays. They don_t bother stamping passports and have even been known to smile.

The Berlin-St Petersburg train passes through Vilnius. If coming from Poland, you can take a direct train from Warsaw to Kaunas, then pick up one of the frequent connections to Vilnius. The direct train from Warsaw to Vilnius passes through Belarus - make sure you have a Belarus transit visa if you require one. The daily Baltic Express, which links Poland with Estonia, stops at three Lithuanian destinations. Ferries link the west coast port of Klaipeda with Århus, Fredericia and Copenhagen (Denmark), Kiel and Mukran (Germany), and Harwich (England).


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Getting Around
Buses and trains are the best ways to get around, as they go just about everywhere. Although buses are quicker and slightly cheaper, train travel is far from
dear: you can track 100km (62mi) on little more than small change in general seating class. Driving isn_t a bad option since the main roads are good, traffic is light and distances are small. It_s best to bring your own vehicle, because car rental is very expensive. Lithuanians drive on the right and a zero blood-alcohol level is strictly enforced. Cycle touring hasn_t really taken off in Lithuania, but the country_s flatness, small size and light traffic make it good pedalling territory.
Further Reading
The Baltic Revolution, by Anatol Lieven, is an insightful account of the heady days of the early 1990s, written by the Baltic States correspondent for the London Times.
Russia, by German author JG Kohl, includes a lengthy section on the Baltic states as part of his account of travels in the tsarist empire in the 1840s.
Journey into Russia, by Laurens Van Der Post, is an account of the author_s travels through Soviet Russia in the 1960s, including a visit to Vilnius.
William Palmer_s Good Republic conjures up the atmosphere of the pre-WWII Baltics, the Soviet and Nazi occupations, and the feel of émigré life.
Bohin Manor, by Tadeusz Konwicki, is set in Lithuania in the aftermath of the 1863 uprising. It evokes tensions between locals, their Russian rulers and a Jewish outsider, as well as the foreboding and mysterious nature of the Lithuanian backwoods.
The Baltic States: The Years of Independence 1917-40, by Georg von Rauch, and The Baltic States: The Years of Dependence 1940-80, by Romuald Misiunas and Rein Taagepera, are both weighty historical tomes.
Forest of the Gods, by Lithuanian dramatist Balys Sruoga, is locally published and available in Vilnius. It is a powerful account of the author_s time spent in the Stutthof Nazi concentration camp.




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